Changing your supercharger oil is essential maintenance that keeps your supercharger performing at its best. This guide covers everything you need to know to change the oil safely and correctly, whether you’re working with the unit installed or removed.
Tools & Supplies You’ll Need
- 3/16” Allen socket
- 10mm or 12mm socket (depending on unit)
- Torque wrench (in-lbs and ft-lbs)
- Alcohol or degreaser wipes
- Loctite sealant (for sealing surfaces)
- Blue Loctite threadlocker (for bolts)
- Supercharger oil – 8 oz. bottle (link to your product page)
Recommended (Cleaner and Easier)
- Remove the oil fill plug with a 3/16” Allen socket.
- Tip the supercharger upside down and allow the oil to fully drain.
- Remove the 6 or 8 nose cone bolts using a 10mm or 12mm socket.
- Carefully break the Loctite seal and separate the nose cone (N/C) from the Rotating Group.
Note: If the Rotating Group also separates from the housing, you will need to reseal it during reassembly.
Oil Draining Procedure:
1– Remove the oil fill plug with a 3/16” Allen socket.
2– Tip the supercharger upside down and allow the oil to fully drain.
3– When the oil is finished draining out, remove the 6 or 8 nose cone bolts using a 10mm or 12mm socket. (once again, this varies depending on the S/C unit).
4– VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! With the bolts removed, you can now break the loctite seal between the N/C and Rotating Group in order to break the N/C free and remove it from the S/C. However, it is possible that when breaking the N/C loose from the Rotating Group, you may also break the loctite seal between the Rotating Group and the S/C Housing, if this happens, you will have to remove the Rotating Group and reseal it to the S/C Housing.
5– The other way to begin draining your oil is to skip straight to step 3 and to let the oil drain as you remove the N/C (this way is a little messier than following all steps in these instructions). *You can use the photo on step 4 as an example.*
N/C Cleaning and Reassembly:
1– Before reinstalling your N/C, Remove all old Loctite from the mating surfaces of the nose cone and Rotating Group mating surface.
2– With the two mating surfaces free of the old loctite, wipe down your two surfaces with some alcohol as the final cleaning step.
3– You should now be ready to apply the new loctite sealant to one of the two surfaces, we recommend putting it onto the N/C surface. You will want to run a small bead of loctite sealant around the perimeter of the N/C and also around each bolt hole.
4– IMPORTANT STEP! With the loctite in place and the Rotating Group surface clean, you can now place the N/C back onto the Rotating Group (MAKE SURE to have your coupler in place before reinstalling the N/C).
5– Apply some blue loctite to your N/C bolts and reinstall them into the S/C, tightening them to a torque of 18 ft-lbs. Tighten from the center out, using a circular pattern, to ensure even torquing.
6– Wipe and clean off any excess loctite that squeezes out during the torque step.
Oil Fill Procedure:
NOTE: We supply an 8 oz. bottle of oil to accommodate all S/C oil amounts, but the amount of oil used will depend on your application. You can find a list of our oil chart here: https://superchargersonline.com/2021/08/31/eaton-supercharger-oil-chart/
1– Take your 8 oz. oil bottle and measure out the correct amount for your particular application.
2– Pour the S/C oil into the N/C through the oil fill hole.
3– Install and torque the new oil fill plug to 180 in-lbs.
You should now be finished with your S/C’s oil change and can reinstall the supercharger on your vehicle.
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After reading the instructions, I take it you cannot put the new oil into the supercharger with it still in the car.
Depends on the vehicle.
How do perform the oil change while SC is still on truck? Can I unscrew drain plug and drain?
No, the unit needs to be removed to service the oil properly.
Do you guys perform the service on the vehicle if brought into your shop? If so whats the wait time?
Hey, few questions here:
1. Is it possible to suck the old oil with a pump or syringe while the SC is still on the car?
2. If removed from the car, why not just drain the old oil from the plug, but you must disassemble and then assemble the front part/cover (don’t know the technical term)? Is it to clean the gears inside or why?
The only way to properly drain the oil is to remove the nose drive casting or gear cover and drain it completely.
if you remove the fill plug what level should the oi be at
There is not a “level” the unit needs to be filled with the proper amount of oil. What supercharger do you have?
I have a 2002 Mercedes c230 with the m45 supercharger. Does the supercharge have to be out of the car to change the oil?
And if I take the super charger out should I also change the coupler? I’ve heard of these superchargers having worn couplers.
yes it must be removed
So when they designed that nose cone, why didn’t they position the fill hole so that the bottom of it is where the top of the oil level is when it is full?
Why didn’t they also design in a small drain plug at the bottom of the face of the nose cone?
These nose drives can be used in a number of applications that could require a different oil fill. As for the drain plug, this oil is good for 100-150K miles. You really should replace the coupler and inspect the gear case at this point of your PM schedule. A drain plug while convenient, would not be needed.
What is the torque for the bolts on the lower mounting plate of a M112 supercharger ?
Hello sir ,
I have a 2013 corvette zr1 … it has only 7k miles on it … do i need to change the supercharger oil because of the aged issue or am i good ?
And how often should i change it ? And also do i need to remove the supercharger to drain the oil or taking out with a syringe would be enough?
Thank you in advance
about every 150K miles